A Minimalist Approach To Fly Fishing Gear

Intro

As you may have already figured out, fly fishing is a massive obsession of mine. I didn't have family members to teach me, so I'm primarily self-taught. I remember how overwhelming the process could be, so if you're in a similar situation and are interested in learning to fly fish, there are a few things you'll need. In this post, we'll review the 15 pieces of gear you need to get started. Before we begin, I want to make a few blanket statements. The gear we're looking at today is primarily for trout fishing on Western rivers and streams. If you're into steelhead or salmon, there may be a different video for you. Also, if you're learning to fish, I recommend doing so during the summer and fall, from July through September. You'll have a much higher success rate, an easier time wading, and you'll be less likely to freeze or get frustrated. Let's get started!

Rod

When fly fishing, it's important to have the right rod. For Western rivers, it's recommended to use a rod at least 8 feet long, with 9 or 10 feet even better. This may seem long initially, but you'll appreciate the extra distance as you improve your skills. For tight Eastern rivers, a shorter rod is more appropriate.

The "rod weight" refers to the rod's flexibility, which affects how quickly you can land a fish. A 4 or 5-weight rod is an excellent all-around rod. I prefer a 4-weight rod for its flexibility and sensitivity, especially when fighting smaller fish.

Spending a lot of money on a new rod is unnecessary. A good middle-of-the-road option will do the job. Talk to your local fly shop staff for guidance and avoid overspending.

Reel

Now that you have your rod, you need to get a reel. Reels, like watches, can be needlessly expensive. For trout fishing, they just store your fly line. You don't need a fancy reel with features like large arbors or insane drag. Keep it simple. I personally use an old Pflueger Medalist that I bought for $15 at a garage sale, and it works perfectly for me. The most important thing is to choose the right size based on your rod.

Line and Backing

Next is the fly line and backing. Backing is a braided string that goes behind your fly line. It fills up your reel and acts as an insurance policy if a fish runs you out of fly line. If that happens, you still have a string on there to keep up with them. You deserve a high five if a fish takes you into the backing! And congratulations, you're probably going to be a lifetime fly fisher.

In front of the backing, you have your fly line, which is the PVC-coated portion that has a little weight to it, allowing you to cast virtually weightless flies. A good fly line is actually worth the money. I'll link the brand that I use below. When selecting your fly line, just like your reel, you'll be basing it on the weight of your rod, so a four-weight rod gets a four-weight line.

Leaders and Tippet

Don't let this part confuse you; it's not nearly as complicated as fly-fishing companies would have you believe. The leader is the transparent portion you attach to the fly line, which tapers in diameter from large to small. At the furthest end, where you tie on the fly, it's the smallest, so the trout can't see it. I tie my own leaders, but I recommend you go with a 9-foot, 5x leader. The 9 feet refer to the length, and the 5x refers to the diameter at the smallest end of the leader. 5x is an excellent all-around use leader. As you tie on flies and cut them off or lose them in trees, the material at the end of our leader is getting shorter. Rather than buy a new leader every single time, we use something called tippet. Tippet is a spool of a single-diameter monofilament. Because we're using a 5x leader, we're going to go with a spool of 5x tippet. As the leader gets shorter, we will tie that tippet on to keep our leader at 9 feet.

Flies

When starting out fly fishing, it's essential to keep things simple. I recommend starting with an elk hair caddis fly in sizes 12 and 16. Focus on learning to fish with this top-water fly, as it's easy to see and will help you practice casting and reading water. By sticking to one type of fly, you can save time swapping flies and getting confused. As you progress, your collection of flies will naturally expand, and you may even become interested in tying your own flies. Additionally, I suggest mashing the barbs on your flies to make hook removal easier and reduce the risk of injuring the fish.

Fly Box

Okay, you need a fly box. Now, just get a cheap one—it doesn't need to be expensive. If you're really on a budget, clean out an old Altoids tin—that will work just fine. It's just a place to hold your flies.

Floatant

Just apply a small amount of this to your fly to help it float longer. You'll be grateful you did.

Nippers

For cutting tippet and protecting your teeth. They also have a small poker on the back to help clean out the eye of a hook if you're struggling with the leader.

Forceps

Usually, removing the hook is easy, but occasionally, a fish will swallow it deep. In such cases, forceps come in handy. I recently lost my forceps, so I'm currently using the pliers on my multi-tool until I can get to a fly shop.

A Fanny Pack

This is super helpful for storing all your gear and keys and allows you to bring a water bottle with you on the river.

Crocs

This is my favorite way to wet wade in the summer. I put them in four-wheel drive, and they work great. Why not wear fly fishing boots, waders, or wading socks? Well, because if you're going to buy them, you should get good quality ones, and they're expensive. However, if you're going to do a lot of early morning or late evening fishing in the fall and need the warmth, that's one thing. Or if you're in a river with higher flow and need ankle support, that's another valid reason. I'll link some options I like below, but they're expensive. If you have extra money to spend, this is the place to do it.

Polarized Sunglasses

Now I have these fancy Ray-Ban sunglasses, but before these, I had a cheapo pair. Honestly, I like the cheap pair more. They don't have to be expensive, but they do have to be polarized. Polarized glasses are like x-ray vision when you're fishing. They allow you to cut through the surface glare and see into the water. This helps you see trout coming up to your fly and features like boulders, making it safer for wading. And, of course, they protect your eyes from hooks. It's a win-win!

Dark Brimmed Hat

It's about reducing surface glare and protecting your face from the sun.

Net

This is optional, but it does make landing and handling the fish easier. It doesn't have to be expensive, but make sure it's made of rubber material instead of the old cordage style. The old cordage damages the fish's skin, so avoid using it.

Fishing License and Regulation Book

The requirements for fishing licenses vary depending on the state in which you live. To find out how to obtain one, simply log on to your state's fishing game website. Make sure to have a valid fishing license with you at all times, as fishing without one is illegal and not worth the potential fine.

A Request

Next time, we'll cover how to set up your fishing rod and head out for some fishing. I hope you enjoyed this post. If you did, remember to be a good river steward. Never leave any trash behind; always pick it up when you can. Respect the river and its habitat, and just generally do the right thing so that we can all continue to enjoy these beautiful places. If you have any questions, please leave a comment below. Happy fishing and I'll see you next time!

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